Sartorial Elegance and Dress Etiquettes
Thursday, July 6, 2017
Sartorial pertains to finesse in clothing, tailoring and sophistication in dressing etiquettes. This is a manifestation and embodiment of an aesthetic taste reflective of a man’s penchant for resplendence. Very few are gifted by this trait which involves meticulousness in ones mien and attire. With the passage of time there has been a massive decline in dress etiquettes and mannerisms. The British left a legacy of their customs after independence which the local goras followed for quite some time. Gradually their customs faded away and we were faced with a dilemma of hotchpotch and assortment of dresses which we have not been able to crystalize.
I remember few of the dresses in vogue in late 50s and 60s like the Solar Hat, shorts with stockings as part of uniform, Sam Browne Belts, which remained in vogue. When our generals like Zia became obese with protruding bellies it was time to doff the cross belt. To add to the unkindest cut Kayani was instrumental in getting rid of the web belt. For a moment one was bewildered to see all being under open arrest. It was such aslovenly and disorderly sight to see.
During yester years we had one of the finest combinations of tailors. Tailors and outfitters who took great pride in provision of services to great personalities like Field Marshals Ayub, Auchinleck, Wavell, Messervy Gracey and the Quaid. Topping the list was Muhammad Shah and Shaikh Ismail. Their cutters were trained from London who took immense pains in measurements. The dresses were impeccable. Despite all efforts one could not find a bulge or flaw in their expertise.
These days you have an assemblage of tailors in every nook and corner making dishevelled suits. One gets the impression if it is the work of a cobbler or a tailor!!Sartorial implies no fancy or expensive attire bit exquisitely tailored clothing emanating perfection and aesthetic taste. It is always better to be overdressed vis-vis few blemishes here and there.
As one gracefully ages the dresses in turn become conservative yet retaining its former glory. A gentleman’s wardrobe should have clothing which remains in vogue irrespective of vacillating trends in fashion. By that I infer 2 button single breast suit has always withstood test of fashion gimmicks at all times. Trousers with 18 inches straight bottom will continue to remain in favour whether bellbottoms or teddyism rules the roost.White shirts will always bein favour at all times irrespective of dress codes.
- Semi-Formal
- National/Pakistani
- Formal
- Smart Casual
- Formal Black/White Tie
- Royal Ascot
- Wearing brown shoes with dark coloured suits.
- Wearing outlandish belts of non- matching colours with suits and shoes.
- Adorned with flashy ties instead of the sober coloured ones like grey, maroons and light greens.
- Wearing pointed upturned shoes with white and non-contrasting socks is a definitely inappropriate.
- Oxford, brogue and baroque shoes have always retained their classical looks.
- Combinations colours’ are navy blue coat with grey trousers.
- For a smart casual look wear moccasins, with a denim/Dockers trousers and decent coloured shirt.
- To add pizazz and glamour I advocate wearing of waistcoats rather flashy to stand out with the suits. I am a strong proponent of these.Optional would be a bow tie and cummerbunds to give a dandyish look.
- Shirts with good quality cuffs and studs area last a part of a man’s cabinet or a portmanteau. Seville Row stands out in this domain.
- Accessories must include watches, handkerchiefs, and an assortment of caps and hats.
- I have a penchant and proclivity for sophisticated hats/caps for all occasions matching with my attire by giving a distinct appearance.
- Royal Ascot caps by Christies are the ideal cap in winters.
- Akubra, Stetson and Dorman Pacific hats are class by itself.
- In summers and fall Caps by Kangol withstand all the vagaries of weather.
To encapsulate sartorial elegance as an art this does not emanate naturally. It requires aesthetics, perfection and being a fashion connoisseur. To avoid embarrassment one has to keep abreast with dress codes prescribed at functions and gala events. Being overdressed is a safe bet to avoid being ticked. Colour combinations and contrasting is equally significant in selection of a man’s attire. The entire edifice of a perfect sartorial look befalls on the tailoring of clothes. Even a modest suit yet tailored with painstaking precision will give a debonair look over an expensive dishevelled suiting.
Labels: Coaching, Dress Etiquettes, Etiquette Modules, Grooming, Sartorial Elegance
posted by Salman Aslam @ 12:00 AM,
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